FREE RESOURCE
Learn to Sail
9 fun, visual modules covering everything a beginner needs to know — from how sails work to tying your first knot.
Beginner Sailing Modules
Pick a Topic and Start Learning
How Does Sailing Work
Understanding the relationship between your boat and the wind is the foundation of everything else you will learn. This lesson covers how sails generate power and why some angles are faster than others.
How Sails Generate Power
A sail works like an airplane wing stood on its side. When wind flows across the curved surface of a properly trimmed sail, it creates a difference in air pressure: low pressure on the leeward (downwind) side and higher pressure on the windward side. This pressure difference generates lift — a force that pulls the boat forward and slightly sideways.
Lift vs. Push
When sailing upwind (close-hauled or close reaching), the sails work primarily through lift — like a wing. The keel counteracts the sideways force, and what remains is forward motion.
When sailing downwind (broad reach or running), the wind pushes directly against the sail. This is drag power — less efficient than lift, which is why running is often not the fastest point of sail.
Sail Trim Basics
Getting the sails trimmed properly is what separates motoring with a mast from actually sailing. The telltales (small ribbons on the jib) are your guide:
Reading Telltales
Both streaming back evenly: The sail is trimmed correctly — you are in the groove.
Windward telltale fluttering: You are pointing too high (too close to the wind). Bear away slightly or ease the sheet.
Leeward telltale fluttering: You are pointing too low (too far off the wind). Head up slightly or trim the sheet in.
Points of Sail
The angle between your boat and the wind direction determines your point of sail, which dictates sail trim, boat speed, and heel angle. There are six main points of sail that every sailor should know.
The Six Points of Sail
In Irons (No-Go Zone)
Pointed directly into the wind. Sails luff (flap), the boat stalls. You cannot sail here — you must bear away to fill the sails.
Close Hauled (Beating)
Sailing as close to the wind as possible. Sails pulled in tight, maximum heel. This is the highest angle of attack where you maintain forward drive.
Close Reaching
Slightly off the wind from close hauled. Sails eased slightly. A fast, comfortable angle with good speed and less heel than beating.
Beam Reaching
Wind coming from the side. Often the fastest point of sail. Sails at roughly 45 degrees to the centreline. Good balance of lift and comfort.
Broad Reaching
Wind from behind and to the side. Sails eased well out. Fast and powerful, but the boom can swing if you are not careful about an accidental gybe.
Running
Wind directly from behind. Sails all the way out. The boat rolls more and there is risk of an uncontrolled gybe. Some sailors wing-on-wing (jib on opposite side to main) for stability.
Tacking & Gybing
Tacking and gybing are the two ways to change direction on a sailboat. Both involve the wind shifting from one side of the boat to the other, but they work very differently and require different levels of caution.
Tacking
Tacking is turning the bow through the wind so the wind shifts from one side to the other. It is how you make progress toward a destination that is upwind.
The Sequence
- Skipper calls: “Ready about” — Crew prepares to release the jib sheet and move to the other side.
- Crew responds: “Ready” — Confirmation that the crew is prepared.
- Skipper calls: “Helms-a-lee” — The helm is pushed to leeward, the bow turns through the wind.
- The boom crosses the centreline. Crew releases the old jib sheet and pulls in the new one on the opposite side.
- Trim and settle — Crew fine-tunes the sail trim for the new tack. The boat accelerates on the new heading.
Gybing
Gybing is turning the stern through the wind. It happens on downwind points of sail and requires more caution because the boom swings across with force.
The Sequence
- Skipper calls: “Ready to gybe” — Crew prepares, checks for obstacles, keeps heads low.
- Crew responds: “Ready”
- Skipper: “Gybe-ho” — The skipper pulls the mainsheet in to centre the boom before turning the stern through the wind.
- The boom swings across — Controlled by the mainsheet. The crew switches the jib to the new side.
- Ease the main — Once on the new side, ease the mainsheet for the new heading. Keep weight low and centred.
Key Safety Point
An uncontrolled gybe is one of the most dangerous events on a sailboat. The boom can swing across with enough force to injure crew or damage rigging. Always control the mainsheet during a gybe and keep your head below the boom.
Parts of a Sailboat
A sailboat has dozens of parts, each with a specific name and purpose. Knowing these terms is essential for communicating with your crew and understanding sailing instructions. Here are the five main categories.
Hull & Structure
The foundation of the boat. The hull is the main body that sits in the water. The bow is the front, the stern is the back, and the beam is the widest point. Below, the keel — a heavy fin — keeps the boat upright and prevents sideways drift. The rudder at the stern steers the boat, controlled by the tiller (a lever arm) or a wheel. The cockpit is where the crew sits, and the companionway leads below deck.
Mast & Rigging
Everything that holds the sails up. The mast is the tall vertical pole. The boom is the horizontal pole attached to the bottom of the mainsail via the gooseneck fitting. Shrouds are wires on each side supporting the mast laterally, pushed outward by spreaders. The forestay runs from masthead to bow, and the backstay runs from masthead to stern.
Sails & Controls
The mainsail is the primary sail on the mast and boom. The jib (headsail) flies in front of the mast. Every sail has three corners: head (top), tack (bottom front), and clew (bottom back). The three edges are the luff (front), leech (back), and foot (bottom). Halyards raise and lower sails. Sheets control sail angle. Telltales — small ribbons on the sails — show airflow direction.
Hardware & Safety
Cleats secure lines in place. Winches give you mechanical advantage when pulling sheets. The pulpit (bow rail) and pushpit (stern rail) are safety rails connected by stanchions (vertical posts) and lifelines (wires that prevent crew from going overboard). Fenders are cushions hung over the side to protect the hull when docking.
Directions
Port is the left side (red light). Starboard is the right side (green light). Forward means toward the bow, aft means toward the stern. Windward is the side the wind comes from, leeward is the sheltered side.
Sailing Terminology
Sailors have their own language. Learning these terms is not just tradition — clear communication on the water keeps everyone safe. Here are the essential terms grouped by category.
Direction Terms
On the Boat
Port — The left side of the boat when facing forward. Marked by a red light at night.
Starboard — The right side of the boat when facing forward. Marked by a green light at night.
Bow — The front of the boat. Stern — The back of the boat.
Forward — Toward the bow. Aft — Toward the stern. Amidships — The middle of the boat.
Wind Terms
Relative to the Wind
Windward — The side the wind is coming from. Also called the “weather” side.
Leeward (pronounced “loo-ard”) — The side sheltered from the wind. The downwind side.
Upwind — Toward the direction the wind is coming from. Downwind — Away from the wind.
Movement Terms
Changing Course
Heading up — Turning the bow closer to the wind (toward upwind).
Bearing away — Turning the bow further from the wind (toward downwind).
Tacking — Turning the bow through the wind to change sides.
Gybing — Turning the stern through the wind to change sides.
Luffing — When the sails flap because they are not properly trimmed or you are pointing too close to the wind.
Aids to Navigation
Navigation aids (buoys and markers) guide you through channels, around hazards, and into harbours. In Canadian and US waters (IALA Region B), these follow a consistent colour and shape system. Understanding them is essential for safe piloting.
The IALA Region B System
Canada and the United States use the IALA Region B buoyage system. The key phrase to remember is “Red Right Returning” — when returning from open water (heading upstream or into a harbour), keep red markers on your starboard (right) side.
Red Right Returning
This is the single most important rule. When you are heading upstream, entering a harbour, or coming in from the sea: red buoys go on your right. When heading out to sea, the reverse is true — red goes to your left.
Port-Hand Buoys (Green)
Colour: Green | Shape: Can (flat-topped)
Numbers: Odd (1, 3, 5, 7...) | Light: Green (if lit)
Position: Keep on your port (left) side when returning from sea
Starboard-Hand Buoys (Red)
Colour: Red | Shape: Nun (cone-topped, pointed)
Numbers: Even (2, 4, 6, 8...) | Light: Red (if lit)
Position: Keep on your starboard (right) side when returning from sea
Fairway / Safe Water Marks
Colour: Red and white vertical stripes
Meaning: Safe water all around — marks the centre of a channel or the start of a fairway
Action: Pass on either side. Often found at harbour approaches.
Cardinal Marks
Cardinal marks indicate the direction of safe water relative to the mark. They use a black and yellow colour scheme, with two cone topmarks telling you which direction is safe.
Pass to the north. Cones point up.
Pass to the east. Cones base to base (egg).
Pass to the south. Cones point down.
Pass to the west. Cones point to point (wineglass).
How to Remember
North: Both cones UP — pointing north. South: Both cones DOWN — pointing south.
East: Base-to-base = egg shape. Egg = East. West: Point-to-point = wineglass. Wine = West.
Memory Aids
Quick Reference
Red Right Returning — Red nuns on your starboard side coming in from open water.
Even = Red, Odd = Green — Red buoys carry even numbers, green buoys carry odd numbers.
Cans are green, Nuns are red — Flat top = green/port. Pointed top = red/starboard.
Numbers increase going upstream — Buoy #1 is near the sea, numbers climb as you go inland.
Stand-On & Give-Way
The International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (COLREGS) apply to every vessel on the water. As a sailor, you must know who gives way in an encounter and what navigation lights mean. These are not about who “wins” — they are instructions for keeping everyone safe.
Stand-On vs. Give-Way
In any close encounter between two vessels, one is the stand-on vessel (maintains course and speed) and the other is the give-way vessel (must take early, clear action to avoid collision).
Critical Principle
Even if you are the stand-on vessel, you are always obligated to take action to avoid collision if the give-way vessel fails to act. Safety always comes first.
Vessel Hierarchy
When two different types of vessel meet, the less manoeuvrable vessel is generally the stand-on vessel. From most privileged to least:
Vessel Priority (simplified)
- Not under command — Broken down, unable to manoeuvre
- Restricted in ability to manoeuvre — Dredger, vessel laying cable
- Constrained by draught — Large vessel in a narrow channel
- Fishing vessel actively fishing — Trawling or with nets deployed
- Sailing vessel — Under sail power alone
- Power-driven vessel — Engine engaged, including a sailboat under motor
Key Point for Sailors
A sailing vessel under sail is generally the stand-on vessel when encountering a power-driven vessel. But the moment you start your engine and engage the propeller, you become a power-driven vessel and must follow power-vessel rules, even if your sails are still up.
Sail vs. Sail Encounters
Opposite Tacks
The vessel on port tack gives way to the vessel on starboard tack. (Port tack = wind hitting your port/left side first.)
Same Tack
The windward vessel gives way to the leeward vessel. (Windward = closer to where the wind is coming from.)
Cannot Determine
If you are on port tack and cannot determine the other vessel’s tack, you give way. When in doubt, keep clear.
Power vs. Power Encounters
Three Situations
- Head-on: Both vessels alter course to starboard (pass port-to-port).
- Crossing: The vessel with the other on her starboard side gives way. (If you see the other vessel’s red light, you give way.)
- Overtaking: The overtaking vessel always gives way, regardless of type.
Navigation Lights
Between sunset and sunrise, all vessels must display the correct navigation lights:
Port Sidelight
Red. Visible from dead ahead to 112.5° on the port side.
Starboard Sidelight
Green. Visible from dead ahead to 112.5° on the starboard side.
Stern Light
White. Covers the 135° arc astern. Visible from behind.
Masthead / Steaming Light
White, high on the mast. Required when under power. NOT lit when sailing.
What the Lights Tell You
If you see red — you are looking at their port side. You may need to give way.
If you see green — you are looking at their starboard side. They may need to give way to you.
If you see both red and green — the vessel is heading straight at you. Take immediate action.
Knots & Their Uses
Knowing a handful of reliable knots is one of the most practical skills in sailing. Each knot has a specific purpose — using the right knot for the job means it will hold when loaded and come undone when you need it to.
Bowline
Purpose: Creates a fixed loop that will not slip or jam under load. The most important knot in sailing.
When to Use
- Attaching a jib sheet to the clew of a sail
- Creating a loop to throw over a dock cleat or post
- Any time you need a secure, non-slipping loop
How to tie
Make a small loop in the standing part. Pass the free end up through the loop, around behind the standing part, and back down through the loop. Remember: “The rabbit comes out of the hole, goes around the tree, and goes back down the hole.”
Reef Knot (Square Knot)
Purpose: Joins two ends of the same line — typically used when tying a reef (reducing sail area) or securing a furled sail to the boom.
How to tie
Right over left, then left over right. The two loops should sit flat and symmetrical. If it twists into a “granny knot,” it will slip — retie it.
Sheet Bend
Purpose: Joins two ropes of different sizes. More secure than a reef knot when the ropes are not the same diameter.
How to tie
Make a bight (U-shape) in the thicker rope. Pass the thinner rope up through the bight, around behind both parts of the bight, and tuck it under itself. The free ends should exit on the same side for maximum security.
Clove Hitch
Purpose: Quick temporary attachment to a post, rail, or ring. Easy to tie and untie, but can slip under changing loads.
How to tie
Make two loops in the same direction. Place the second loop on top of the first and drop both over the post. Pull tight. For extra security, add a half hitch with the free end.
Round Turn & Two Half Hitches
Purpose: Strong, reliable attachment to a ring, post, or rail. More secure than a clove hitch and excellent for tying fender lines or docking lines to a piling.
How to tie
Pass the line completely around the post twice (the “round turn”), then tie two half hitches around the standing part. The round turn takes most of the load, and the half hitches lock it in place.
Safety Equipment
Canadian regulations require specific safety equipment on board depending on the size of your vessel. Below is the required equipment for sail and power boats over 9 m and up to 12 m (29′6″ – 39′4″).
Personal Lifesaving Appliances
1. One PFD or lifejacket for each person on board — must be Canadian-approved and fit properly. This is the single most important piece of safety equipment.
PFD vs Lifejacket
A lifejacket is designed to turn an unconscious person face-up in the water. A PFD is more comfortable to wear but may not turn you face-up. Both are approved — the best one is the one you actually wear.
2. One reboarding device — a ladder, scramble net, or similar that allows a person in the water to climb back aboard unassisted.
3. One buoyant heaving line at least 15 m long — a throwable rope that floats, used to reach a person in the water.
4. One lifebuoy attached to a buoyant line at least 15 m long — a ring-shaped flotation device that can be thrown to a person overboard.
Visual Signals
5. One watertight flashlight
6. Twelve (12) flares of Type A, B, C, or D — no more than six (6) may be Type D. All flares must not be expired.
Flare Types
Type A — Parachute flare. Shoots high, visible from a great distance.
Type B — Multi-star flare. Fires two or more stars.
Type C — Hand-held flare. Close-range signalling once rescuers are nearby.
Type D — Smoke signal. Daytime use — orange smoke visible from the air.
Vessel Safety Equipment
7. One anchor with at least 30 m of cable, rope, or chain (any combination). Beyond holding position, an anchor keeps you off a lee shore and can hold the boat during an emergency.
8. One manual bilge pump or bilge-pumping arrangement — to remove water from the hull.
Navigation Equipment
9. One sound-signalling device — a horn or whistle to signal in fog or alert other vessels.
10. Navigation lights — required between sunset and sunrise, or in reduced visibility.
Basic Pattern
Red on port (left), green on starboard (right), and a white stern light visible from behind. A vessel under power also shows a white masthead light.
11. One magnetic compass
12. One radar reflector — makes your vessel visible on other boats' radar screens.
Fire Fighting Equipment
13. One 10BC fire extinguisher if equipped with a motor.
14. One 10BC fire extinguisher if equipped with a fuel-burning cooking, heating, or refrigerating appliance.
Note
A vessel with both a motor and a galley needs two 10BC extinguishers. They must be accessible — not buried in a locker — and inspected annually.
Mock Exam
Test your knowledge across all 9 topics. 18 questions pulled from every module — see how much you have learned!
Mock Exam
Ready to Get on the Water?
Our Sail Canada certified courses take you from beginner to confident skipper in just a few days.
View Our CoursesMake It Official
These free modules are just the beginning. Our hands-on courses lead to Sail Canada certification — the real passport to sailing anywhere.